How to make a one-piece shawl collar

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The shawl collar is a special type of collar characterized by the absence of lapels. Most often found in jackets, vests, cardigans and blouses.

The top of the shawl collar is always cut out with the pick. The lower collar can be cut with a shelf (one-piece) or a separate part.

Consider the sequence of execution of a one-piece shawl collar using the silk vest from Burda 6/2018 as an example:

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Before proceeding with the processing of the shawl collar, it is necessary to perform shoulder seams. Neaten seams and iron over welds.

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Step 1

Fold the shelves with their front sides, on the whole collar with shelves of the lower collar, perform the rear middle seam. Neaten the inner section of the collar.

Step 2

Stitch the lower collar into the neck of the back, laying the stitches on both sides of the mid-back line, then sew the tucks with the same lines. Cut the seam allowances in the rounding sections in several places, iron.Iron tuck depths forward.

Step 3

Fold the seam with the front sides, on the all-cut upper collar with the kits, perform the rear middle seam. Iron seam allowances.

Step 4

Pin the back of the neckline to the bumps with a one-piece upper collar with the front side to the front side and grind to the inner cut of the upper collar between the corners. Cut the pick in the corners close to the last stitches of the seam (arrow).

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Step 5

Sew the seam and hem the back of the neck along the shoulder sections (in this pattern, this is reference mark 7). Cut the seam allowances close to the lines, cut and iron. Neaten inner sections of rebounds and hem the back of the neck.

Step 6

Picking the neckline and upper neckline with the upper collar to the shelves and the lower collar face to the front side, while the lapels of the collars and the upper collar should be slightly larger than the lapels of the shelves and the lower collar. Lay a line along the lower sections of the shelves, sections of the sides and collar. Cut the seam allowances close to the line, not reaching 2 cm to the ends of the picks. In the rounding sections, cut seam allowances.

Step 7

Unscrew the collar, select and turn the back of the neck back to the wrong side. Sweep the edges and iron them. Bend the collar and the shelves along the fold lines, sweep the upper collar with oblique woven stitches.